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Seeking upgrade advice

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Hello,

Advice on below would be very much appreciated.

- I have two LP12s in very similar configuration, the only difference is one has Trampoline2 and the new T-Cable, the other still has the wood board and old grey cable.

- Current config is: Circus, Lingo1, Ekos2, old standard sub-chasis.

- One is sitting in my home (#1), and the other is in a weekend home (abandoned parents house that I occupy on weekends for me time Tongue #2)

There are two different paths that I am considering ..
- Kore on both + Radikal AK on #1; or
- Keel on #1 + Kore on #2.

In the second case, I would probably add a Radikal to #1 next year or so(?).

I know the theory is to do sub-chasis first, then power .. but, seeing that the Lingo 1 is so old (but giving me no problems), Kore + Radikal seemed like a decent idea. The only problem being, I would probably never upgrade to Keel then..

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Why has Kazoo 4.7.857 changed sorting from Artist to Album Artist?

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Why on earth have the latest Kazoo version (4.7.857) changed its Artists sorting from the meta tag <Artist> to <Album Artist>?? This screws up my whole library, where I have spent hundreds of hours specifically making sure <Artist> is correctly labled in all of my 2000+ albums. Why do you force me to redo this all over again??

Right now I'm really tired... Sad

/mats

Linn Sondek LP12 -- Identification of Parts and Servicing Questions

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Hi folks,

First post here.

I wonder if anyone can help me identify the parts -- and essentially the "spec level" -- of my Linn Sondek LP12.

My father bought the unit -- which came with a Lingo Mark I power supply -- from a Linn employee (and old friend) in circa 1992 (I believe).

The Sondek LP12 has no rear label/placard whatsoever. The Lingo Mark I has a label on the underside, but the serial section and all other boxes are blank.

It has had practically no usage. It has sat under a dust cover in the attic for circa 23+ years. (He preferred his Garrard 401, but that's another story!)



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**PHOTOS**


I have uploaded a number photograph sets as follows:


(1A) Linn Sondek LP12 and Lingo Mark I -- lid closed on Sondek LP12: http://imgur.com/a/ZMQwo
(1B) Linn Sondek LP12 and Lingo Mark I -- lid open on Sondek LP12: http://imgur.com/a/9ahlF

(2) Linn Sondek LP12 Feet: http://imgur.com/a/YM76W

(3) Linn Sondek LP12 Hinges: http://imgur.com/a/lPgwC

(4) Linn Sondek LP12 Underside: http://imgur.com/a/PKqSc

(5) Linn Sondek LP12 Tonearm -- Linn Basik LV X: http://imgur.com/a/cq3W4

(6) Linn Sondek LP12 Tonearm Cartridge -- Linn K9: http://imgur.com/a/P8DHw

(7A) Linn Lingo Mark I: http://imgur.com/a/Xjz2v
(7B) Linn Lingo Mark I -- Underside: http://imgur.com/a/S8RZ5



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**CURRENT SPEC UNDERSTANDING**


I've managed to identify a fair amount of the unit, but there are still some aspects of it that I am unsure about.

Here is what (I think) I know:

* Plinth: Linn Sondek LP12 Walnut plinth.
* Internally braced corners in plinth?: [Unknown -- probably?]

* Plastic hood/cover: Linn clear plastic record player cover. Held open by hinge springs.

* Sub-Chassis: [Unknown.]
* Base Board: [Unknown.]

* Motor Unit: [Unknown.]
* Bearing: [Unknown.]

* Platters (Inner and Outer): Standard Linn Sondek Inner and Outer platters. (Probably?)
* Drive belt: Standard Official Linn drive belt. Bought August 2015. Unfitted at present.
* Record Mat: Standard Linn felt mat. (Probably?)

* Arm-Board: Linn standard "circular-holed" arm-board.
* Tonearm: Linn Basik LV X tone-arm.
* Cartridge: Linn K9 phono cartridge (yellow-coloured; moving magnet ["MM"] type).

* Power supply: Linn Lingo Mark I.



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**QUESTIONS**


I'm very, very hopeful that some of you kind folks can help me with some questions I have about the unit.

The questions are as follows:


(1) Can someone tell me how to go about safely opening-up/dissassebling/re-assembling the unit to identify these parts?:

* Internally braced corners in plinth?
* Sub-Chassis
* Base Board
* Motor Unit
* Bearing



(2) I'm in Glasgow, and according to http://www.linn.co.uk/find-a-shop , and it seems the two relevant locations for me are:

i. Loud and Clear (St. Vincent Street, Glasgow, G3 8XZ); or
ii. Linn Factory / Linn Headquarters (Glasgow Road, Waterfoot, Eaglesham, [South] Glasgow, G76 0EQ)

Am I better going to Loud and Clear or the Linn Factory/HQ site to ask for the following?:

A. component identification and itemisation (perhaps including digital photographs if at all possible)
B. service and re-calibration

plus

C. buy and fit new lid and hinges
D. buy official Linn Sondek LP12 packaging
E. buy official Linn Lingo Mark I packaging (if available, which is unlikely)



(3) How much would a A and B (only) cost?


(4) How much would adding C/D/E (if possible) cost?


(5) Can someone tell me the correct/recommended oil for this unit?

It seems there are older oils ("Gold Oil") and newer oils ("Black Oil"). I'm not sure which one is suitable.





That's everything (I think) that I am looking to find out.

I am very grateful if anyone has any views they would willing to share on these things.

Lastly, if there is anything I am wrong about and/or don't understand, please let me know!

Akurate DS/2 vs Klimax Renew DS/0

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Hi all,

I still have the Akurate DS/0 (without Dynamik) and wonder what the best upgrade will be: Akurate DS/2 or Klimax Renew/0. Anyone compared the two?

I haven't heard both options, but it is difficult to compare the two. Dealers only sell the Akurate DS/2 and probably will tell this is the best option. And I think Klimax Renew DS/0 owners probably upgrade to an Klimax DS/1 instead of compare their Klimax Renew with an Akurate.

The cheapest option for me is the Klimax Renew DS/0, because I can sell my Akurate and the prices of the Klimax Renew DS/0 dropped, because of the appearence of the Klimax Renew DS/1.
The upgrade to the Akurate DS/2 is 2240 euro and I probably still have to pay another 600 euro's for the Dynamik, so almost 3000 euro. I think the Klimax DS/0 will cost me 1700 euro.

I only saw one reviewer who compared different DS's, old and new and tried to translate.

http://blog.silences.be/2015/05/nos-real...limax.html

If someone could translate the conclusions for me I'm happy!

Regards,

Peter

Renew K Blue light frozen

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Need help

System was working well till I updated the Konfig
- as it was taking long, with renew DS blue light flashing, i lost my patience and killed it
- Konfig update obviously failed, so i uninstalled and successfully re-installed

Problem now:
- Konfig does not Detect my Renew DS
- Renew DS blue light is always NOT blinking
---> does not blink on startup
---> does not blink when i unplug internet cable

Any idea to propose? I see a fallback switch at the back which i am tempted to try. But please advise, shoul i bring the Renew to Linn?

many thanks in advance

Rick Wakeman

Kelidh speaker plates

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I have lost the plates that are needed for passive use to connect the bass and treble cable
sockets. Can anyone advise me as to how I can do a work around. Could I make up plates from a thin piece of aluminum (eg a coke tin) or is that a stupid idea? Could I just use a bare copper electrical wire and loop a connection (externally) around the sockets, after removing the circular collars? I am not technically minded and would be grateful to anyone who is and is willing to help me.
many thanks.

unidisk 1.1 with EKDSM

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I have a unidisk 1.1 that I use for sacds. If I connect it to the analogue rca inputs to the EKDSM, will it use the DACS from the unidisk or the DSM ?

No more artists presentation in Kazoo?

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Does anyone know what has happened to the short artist pesentation above the records in Kazoo artists view? Now it only displays the no artwotk tone icon. Not that I really miss them, but curious.

BR, mats

Which DAC input to use on MDSM?

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Hello,
As the MDSM has HDMI inputs I connected my TV decoder, Blu-ray player through that plug to take benefit of the Linn DAC.

But has any of you compared the HDMI input with optical or SPDIF one for the treatment of the sound?

Thanks!

About keilidh for aktiv...

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Hello

I'm new in Linn forum.
I have a friend who has a pair of Keilidh loudspeakers
He is interested in buying the crossover cards that matches this system
I know these are discontinued products.
But does someone knows were we could get such cards?
Or does anybody has these cards for sale?
Thanks!

Audiofreak

advice needed

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Hi all , have been a long term linn devotee but sadly their current speaker line, prices and decision to steer away from multichannel has ended that. All current gear will be sold. Ill keep my akurate Lp12, sell the dsm and probably invest in a akurate ds for streaming, (Klimax gear in australia is a joke price wise now) i have already decided to buy the new about to be released atc scm50 (active) se for front left and right and package it with their new range of multichannel speakers to complete a 5.1 setup. my question is i have no idea what pre amp and amp combo is suitable for the rest? I need hdmi inputs for tv and blueray but thats it Im after the best quality for around 5000 pounds or 10000 aud or less, opinions greatly appreciated? classe? anthem? any experience with theses brands

Flashing blue LEDs inside Majik DSM/2

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In Konfig I turned off the Exact and Ethernet LEDs which worked fine, no more LEDs flashing on the back.

But in standby there are still at least two nervously flashing blue LEDs inside the Majik, visible through the ventilation slots. During the day that's no problem at all. But this Majik is in my bedroom. During the night, with all other lights in the room turned off, I get a not so nice lightshow on the wall behind the Majik (turn on your Majik to get some red color added Wink ). These internal blue LEDs somehow shine through the hdmi and tos sockets. There's a lot of air above my Majik, so in my case no reflections upwards.

Anybody else seeing this?

Is there some additional setting I'm missing to get this internal LEDs also turned off?

Or, since I don't have this effect with my ADSM/1, is this maybe just a Majik-related "bug" that can be fixed with software?


...and no, just keeping my eyes closed, or putting on sunglasses Cool as suggested in a similar thread are not options for me Smile.
Covering the unused sockets will be my "fallback"-solution.

Genki v Karik/Numerik

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Hi all,
I have an older Karik / Numerik & ideally I was going to replace them with an Ikemi, but as they're still between £900 / £1000 it would take a month or two.
But, I have a chance of a Genki, I know some people don't rate it very highly, and I realise it's nowhere near the Ikemi, but my question is how does it compare to the Karik / Numerik ?
Would it be worth while to get this and replace with the Ikemi later when the budget is a bit healthier, or keep what I have till I can afford the Ikemi.

And please before everyone starts telling me to ditch all CD players & go down the DS route, that's even further down the line for me.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Stevie.

Exaktbox LEDs annoying

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Hi All. Just got Akurate Exaktbox connected to ADSM converted to Exact spec. I am able to turn of the ADSM LEDs on the back panel through Konfig but although Konfig gives me the option to turn off the Exaktbox LEDs also, they are still on and flashing when I select 'off'. Quite annoying in the evening for me as they bounce back off the wall into the room. Anybody got any idea? Thanks.

Kazoo fast forward

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When using kazoo on the iPad can you fast forward to a specific time point in a song?

You used to be able to do it using Kinsky.

Exakt - Speaker Locations

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We are currently embarking on Phase 1 of our fireplace refurbishment and the chimney is being lined tomorrow.

So all equipment in the hi-fi rack is unplugged and suitably wrapped in dust covers - speakers have been disconnected and moved to the next room.

Of course for someone in the house the speakers are in their Ideal Location, to use Exakt terminolgy.

Not sure if Space Optimisation in Konfig is able to accommodate this configuration but it certainly takes care of any problems with room modes!

LK100 Power Switch problem

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My trusty old LK100's power switch has physically worn out. My dealer said the replacement parts ceased to be available some years ago from Linn.

Does anyone know where there might be a stock of such switches? - I want to keep this amp going if possible and other than for this it was working fine (in a secondary system).

Looking for a LP 12 Lid Badge

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Just wondering if anyone could help me out as my clear LP12 Lid has lost it's original centre LP12 Badge.

Are these available or does someone happen to have a spare one ?

Looking forward to hearing back from someone that might be able to help out.

Cheers From Oz

Majik DSM with Sara's

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I've had my Linn-Naim - LP12, NAC12S, HiCap, NAP160 - system since the mid-70s. The LP12 was updated regularly during the 1980's and in the mid-80's a pair of Linn Sara's completed the outfit. I then made the mistake of moving to Germany to live and discovered that modern German flats and houses are not compatible with good sound (concrete floors, concrete ceilings and massive brick walls). Together with a wife who has a PhD in Design and loves Bauhaus (Bass-traps and any other physical methods of improving room acoustics are "streng verboten"!), this meant that my system spent about half of the last 25 years in its various boxes.

However, I retired a few years back and last year we moved to a new (old - built in 1905) house where I discovered - Hey! things sound better here than I've heard in a long time! So having more time available, I used more of it than I have in a long time, to start listening to music again.

Then came the April issue of the German magazine "Audio" with the Akurate(?) DSM on the font cover and "SPACE optimisation" in large letters. After reading the article which also dealt with Exakt in detail, I found myself thinking - Wow, this could be something for me! Being an engineer I found the description of the Exakt technology and its effects more than convincing, but then reading the price tag for the Akudorik speakers (not to mention the rest of the necessary equipment) brought me back down to earth with a bump. Being retired may mean I have more time to listen to music, but it also means I have less money to spend on it!

But that still leaves the benefits of SPACE to improve the room acoustics and the Majik DSM is within my budget. While I'm no CD fan (I only got round to buying a used CD5i about 4 years ago and that is mainly used by my wife, because although she also prefers the sound of the LP12, she doesn't trust herself with the pick-up arm) the idea of High-res streaming is something I think I could well live with.


That leaves me with two questions buzzing through my head:

1) to get the benefits of SPACE I would need to route the LP12 through the Majik and feed the output to the line-input of the NAC12S - has anybody done this, or something similar and if so, what did it sound like?

2) assuming the general opinion is negative then the next question is what would the Majik sound like driving the Sara's directly - would it even be up to it? I should say that although the Sara's are Ser. Nr. 17xxx, following a party where some idiot decided things weren't loud enough and wound the volume full up, the speakers had to be returned to Linn for repair in 1990. When they came back they looked like Sara 9's and I assume they also have the newer cross-over, which I understand is a little easier to drive.

I like the sound of the NAP160 - Sara combination and I'm not in any hurry to change it (although if I win the pools I might think abou a Klimay Exakt system as a second system Wink ), but I would like to combat the acoustic weaknesses of the room - the only question is how?
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