I'm on 4.55.167 with the latest filters.

Have done a few test swith test tones. Test tones have been send from my Mac via Songcast.

When i used low test tones around 25 Hz i got a horrible sound. I checked the boxes and found that the test tone was only produced by the Ninkas but not by the Sub. It sounded like the Ninka bass drive units are striking against the box or the back of the magnet.

For me it sounded like the low bass was not send to correct drive unit: it was send to Ninkas but should have been send to the Sub!

I did no further test, because is don't like to kill my Ninkas.

But i did a test using a direkt connection (via TosLink) from my Mac to the DSM. In this case every thing was ok -- no problems.

I have today played around a bit with the volume off-set option in the New Space Optimisation.

Main focus was on the Sub volume off-set.

Initial test via the new option in Konfig showed that the left and right speaker are on the same volume level, but that the Sub is very quiet.

I have than done a check with a sound meter and the sub was around 20 db lower than the speakers leading to some questions:

What is the correct way to level the volumes of speakers and Sub. Should they all show the same db level with the test tone from Konfig? Or is the Sub usually lower than the speakers.

I have than changed the level (speakers -12 db, sub +10 db) to get the same db level. Beside the fact that i have no more bass, it had also the positive effect that i can now go to a DSM volume level of around 45 for normal listening (before i usually used 25-35).

Any hints or recommendations?

FYI, every morning at precisely 06:25 GMT the forums do some housekeeping and don't respond for 4 minutes or so.
Not interesting, not important. Just a nugget of a factoid

Hello

I updated my Akurate DS to firmware 4.55.167 and can't access Space Optimization anymore - Konfig 4.32.57 tells me, that I needed the version 4.33.1 or above.
I have checked "Beta Program", but still, Konfig tells me, it's up to date. I did not find any beta downloads on the OSS page, as well.
So: what to do?

Have noticed recently that the balance level on my KDS/3 is drifting to the left. In worst case there was no sound in the right channel at all. I opened Konfig and found the balance was at -15.

This morning I updated to .167, ensured the balance was at 0. Have been listing to Linn Radio and thought the balance was off. Checked Konfig, somehow the balance was now at -6.

Is there any third-party remote or network traffic that could be making this change, or is it a Davaar bug? Will revert out of beta to see if this fixes it.

AEDSM
Exaktbox 10

I get the screenshot below, click on Update All, I agree to the Ts and Cs then absolutely nothing happens.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/ScQi8R]

The grimGizmo box is nearly complete. Only the socket for the power supply still needs to be fitted.




Any guesses about the latest bit of GrimMadness.

Hello.

I´m looking for a used Power Amp for my second system.

What do you think is soundwise the better way to go:

A2200/C2200 Dynamik or Klimax Twin non Dynamik (used approximately equally expensive)

Or save the money and go for a Twin Dynamik in the future ?
That means an extra charge of approximately 1.000 to 1.500 Euros.

The Dynamik upgrade on my C4200 was a huge improvment. Is the Dynamik upgrade for the Twin in the same league?

Kind regards
Hannes

Hi,
I uninstalled songcast from Win 8.1-64 with the intent to re-install it immediately (suspected it of making my startup really slow).

Now, for the life of me, I cannot install Songcast anymore.

The installer runs fine, then runs into an access violation (the very moment the songcast app should start). In my device manager, I now have several "unknown devices". I can click on them, but I cannot update the driver..

What can I do?

my LP -12 is getting fitted with a new Project 9cc. Cartridge also gone and now need to decide between a Grado Prestige Silver, Ortofon 2m Blue or an Adikt.
Obviously the Adikt is much more expensive. However, I only use my turntable now and again and wonder if it's worth the extra.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks Ian

Dynamik PSU´s have been around for a while.

old quote from 2011:

DanielE (LINN) has posted within the “Differences between the Dynamik power supplies” thread (2009), that the original RADIKAL psu is identical to the KLIMAX AKTIV TUNEBOX (XO) psu. That tells me, that a DYNAMIK for RADIKALs fits as a DYNAMIK for KLIMAX AKTIV XOs.

With an exception: … and SaltyDog is completely right by posting: “The Klimax Crossovers (for keltiks at least) uses the same power supply as the CD12”
This also applies to KLIMAX AKTIV XOs for KEILIDHs, TUKANs and 5140/ESPEKs. Those ones would need a massive (internal) mechanical work/revision due to different psu dimensions.
_________________________________

maybe by now someone has an answer to:

1. has anyone actually done the upgrade of a Klimax-XO to dynamik psu?
2. does anyone know if Klimax KATAN XO´s are the first or second type (see above) ?

thank you
imarcel

Hi all

I am a bit betwixt and between. I love vinyl and want to start listening to it more, i used to be a vinyl adikt until children and other things got in the way which meant that streaming via DS became much more convenient.

However when i have the chance to have a good listen i'd prefer to do so on vinyl which i am getting more and more as the children get older.

Now this is the problem, all the new music that i buy is still on CD but i'd prefer to buy it on vinyl, problem being that i'd not get the opportunity to listen to it as much and as yet most vinyl doesn't come with a FLAC download (one of my biggest gripes was the Queen box set that came with code for mp3 download - why?? surely they could give you even a 16bit download for nothing)

I'm not going to start buying vinyl and cd so i have a choice which at the moment is quite easy - continue buying the cd's (or 24 bit download if available)

Now i could rip the vinyl but that is a bit of a faff as i understand it and would involve moving my turntable around to and from the computer / listening room so here's the question - could i use one of those relatively cheap usb turntables to rip to FLAC?

All that i have seen state that they rip to mp3 but i assume that's all in the software. Is there a patch or alternative software that i could use to get my FLAC files?

I understand that cheap turntable won't give the best rip but at least i can still listen to the music until i get chance for a proper listen

Any comments gratefully received

So far I haven't been interested much in subwoofer. Now with the Exakt support this may change.

Checking Linn's website there doesn't seem to be a current Linn offering for a sub or do I miss something?

In particular there doesn't seem to be a 'complete package', i.e. an Exakt subwoofer that I connect via exakt link and that includes DAC and amplifier as the 350 Exakt speaker.
(Being a friend of a minimalistic approach, I'd rather not have an Exakt Box plus a subwoofer).

Seems to be a gap in Linn's offering...

BY

Hello all.

I recently bought keltik speakers along with klimax filters, tunebox/kt.

Set up with exotik/da dynamik, akkurate 4200 dynamik, mid and treble, 2 x LK85 for bass and isobarik.

Before this I had active Keilidhs with Kairn and the two LK 85s active.

I play from my computer with M-audio profire 610 (24 bit 192khz dac) I usually play hi-res classical and jazz.

Now the keilidhs sounded warm, expecially with piano music.

I had to adjust to the Keltiks. Not so warm, but more true. Oké that being said, I think that my mids on the Keltiks are overemphasised.

I know you can fine tune on the tuneboxes, but I'm confused.

There are three adjustment knobs on the filters, first " eq" left to the two bass outputs, then "gain" right to the bass outputs, and "gain" next right to the treble output.

Since I can't find nothing in online manuals, I want to know what I can do with this fine tuning.

I'm not sure where to begin, is eq for the two bass drivers to eq? Can you fine tune the mids? or only bass and treble?

Pls bear in mind I think my mids are overemphasised,

Thanks in advance

Gert

Hi Linn. Downloaded 55.160 to fix bug #4532 problem with some tracks not starting at beggining. Problem fixed in a way but when you play a track that you put into playlist in Kinsky (same on Kazoo), track starts so quickly that you have only just taken your finger of the play button or just off the iPad before the music hits you. It's way too quick. It would be really good if you had at least a second or two before the track starts, you know just like the old days before the problem of tracks missing
first few seconds appeared in the first place. ?Thanks.

ADSM/Akurate Exaktbox.

Hi Guys,

I just wanted to say a big thank you to Julian, John and Paul at my local Linn dealer at Audio T Brighton for their excellent service.

I walked in yesterday to Audio T Brighton with the intention of upgrading from my 'umble Rega deck to a more expensive Rega deck but I wasn't sure which model (I like Rega decks and their other gear) but having recently refurbished a vintage LP12 and having sold it on, I thought I might fancy a new Linn LP12 Majik but I couldn't afford it even though it is a comparable price to the other competing decks in the class. I had considered getting a used LP12 off eBay but decided it was too much of a lottery and a potential money pit. Anyway I thought I had made the classic customer mistake by telling Julian all this but he said it could be my lucky day as they had just taken in a mint condition pre-enjoyed LP12 Majik which they had sold when new (so they knew the history) and their resident LP12 expert John Killick had just serviced and re-set it up and fitted it with a new belt, hinges, mat and Adikt stylus. It was virtually indistinguishable from a new one they also had on display and most importantly to me it was affordable..just! Julian demoed it and helped me understand what it did differently and more importantly what it did better. I must say it is refreshing dealing with people who know what they are doing and talking about based on first hand knowledge and experience. Sometimes Linn and the LP12 get criticised these days but I decided to ignore the latest flavour of the month reviews/opinions and prejudice in some quarters and let my ears help me decide and frankly the decision was easy to make. I could explain that the LP12 Majik had better tempo/leading edge definition/resolution of the different layers of the mix/image focus/soundstage depth/width and all that hifi blah blah etc etc but it simply made the music more engaging and enjoyable to listen to and so I am now the proud owner of a mint LP12 Majik which is a credit to its manufacturer, former owner and to Audio T Brighton.

If you read stuff in some forums it is easy to become prejudiced based on no more than second hand so called "knowledge" and also cynical about dealers but this experience showed me that you should trust your own ears and decide based on what you hear not what someone else says. This has also shown the value of dealing with good professional people and a good dealer can be worth their weight in gold..and in this case Audio T literally proved that to be true.

I should say that I have no connection with Audio T Brighton except for being a happy customer.:)who is delighted with the service I received and product they delivered.

I have been quiet on the Linn Forum the last week, but doing lots of work in the background to figure out the new SPACE Optimization.

The new SPACE Optimization is impressive and should give most people a significantly better sound quality than what they had before. The new filters are stunning and add a whole new dimension to the music listening experience.

I listened to the new SPACE Optimization with my custom filters turned off, and just using the Linn calculated room modes. Nice, very very nice indeed!!!

Most people should be ecstatic with the results they are getting with the new SPACE Optimization. I was.

As an added bonus, my sound quality in Exakt Surround has improved immensely with the new SPACE optimization!!!

But, I am Paulssurround and have a sordid reputation to maintain, and I am never one to leave well enough alone.

I have been playing around with the new calculated room modes and their adjustments, to now feel confident to make the following global suggestions:

These adjustments are unique for my Linn system, and as I have not been able to try them out on anyone else's Linn system yet, and your results may vary.

But if you are interested to try to get more out of your Linn system with the new SPACE Optimization, come along for the ride.....

Before, I had 2 calculated room modes (45.99 and 71.67 Hz) and I had created 3 custom room modes (21.5, 63.5, 74.3 Hz), and with the new SPACE Optimization I now have 5 calculated room modes, with just one custom room mode.

First I tried listening with all my original custom room modes which migrated into the new SPACE Optimization, and I felt I was getting better results than just the Linn calculated room modes alone, by doing a montage of all the new calculated and my previous custom room modes.

This gave highly satisfactory results.

But with more careful listening, I was able to identify some sound quality anomalies which I just had to explore.

I decided to work on each calculated room mode, starting at the lowest calculated room mode frequency.

As in my SPACE optimization guide, I listen to my reference tunes, and then adjust the frequency very slightly up or down, by say 0.02 Hertz increments, to see if I am getting improvements. For example, if the Linn calculated room mode 1 is at 43.27 Hz, I would try out 43.34 Hz, 43.39 Hz and so on. Make sure you write down each change in case you overshoot the mark and get less enjoyable sound quality, you can go back to the previous adjustment value.

If you feel you need to adjust the frequency even more than what Konfig allows for a particular room mode, you would have to create a new custom room mode at that frequency and then you have greater flexibility to adjust frequency and bandwidth. Then be sure to turn off the old calculated room mode by setting the gain to zero.

When you get a single room mode frequency that sounds tuned in, then adjust the gain. I usually add gain, by going from -27.23 to -25.78, for example.

I do this for every new SPACE optimized calculated room mode.

After I have dialled in the frequency, I also go back to each calculated room mode and have narrowed the bandwidth slightly, to the narrowest Konfig will allow, without going into a custom room mode.

Now here is the issue I had to figure out, related to custom room modes.

The new Linn calculated room modes seem to overlap in many cases, my previous custom room modes. At the very least, they are very close to my custom room modes, off by a several Hertz.

With careful listening, where the new calculated room modes are close to the custom room modes from before, or are very close, try the following.

If there is overlap of your old custom room modes and the new calculated room modes, you may be justified to eliminate the custom room mode that are the same frequencies as your previous custom room modes. If the previous custom room mode is close, but not overlapped by the new calculated room mode, then adjust the Linn calculated room mode frequency towards the custom room mode frequency, so that it is as close to the previous custom room mode as before, and then eliminate the custom room mode.

Otherwise consider keeping the calculated and custom room mode if they don't overlap.

Now with very fine tuning, add some gain, and listen, listen, listen.

Repeat this for every calculated room mode and reassess the validity of each custom room mode if it is very close to the new calculated room mode values.

Don't forget to save a new profile for each major change you make, so you can go back to it, if you need to.

What about the previous custom room mode that was in the 16-30 Hz range that was not calculated in the new SPACE Optimization, but you had in the previous Konfig SPACE profile? In my case, I had previously created a custom room mode at 21.5 Hz for my Akubariks, and now still have that in place.

In my system, I have retained this first custom room mode, and it is very helpful in my system. However, I had to adjust the gain moderately, and in my case I have reduced the gain slightly.

If the new calculated room modes don't overlap your previous custom room modes, I would suggest that you consider retaining them as well.



Prior to the new SPACE Optimization, I had only 2 room calculated modes at 45.99 Hz and 71.67 Hz.

Then I added a custom room mode at 21.5 Hz, and custom room modes at 63.5 Hz and 74.3 Hz.



Now with the new SPACE Optimization I have:

I have five calculated room modes with the new SPACE at 39.27 Hz, one at 45.99, (as before), one at 60.47, one at 71.67 (as before), and a new room mode at 78.54 Hz that I never had before.

After my adjustments, my calculated room modes are as follows:

Room mode 1 is at 40.93, gain is -21.30/-25.46, bandwidth 0.087990

Room mode 2 is at 45.99, gain is -29.6/-29.52, bandwidth is 0.083486

Room mode 3 is at 62.47, gain at -10.52/-15.96, bandwidth is 0.057144

Room mode 4 is at 73.67, gain is -14.46/-13.97, bandwidth is 0.048220

Room mode 5 is at 78.54, gain is -20.67/-21.75, bandwidth is 0.044001

In addition, I have retained my custom room mode at 21.5 Hz, but reduced the gain slightly.



Below I have pasted an excerpt of my SPACE Optimization guide to refresh your memory at the bottom of this post.

The whole thread is linked here:

http://forums.linn.co.uk/bb/showthread.php?tid=35880


How does it sound after all this wizardry?


With the new Christmas filters and new calculated room modes/custom room mode hybrid settings, it is extraordinary, exemplary and exciting in its musicality and clarity.


I will continue to plays around with it over the next while. Yeah, I know, rust never sleeps.










For Your reference, an excerpt from my Paulssurround SPACE Optimization Guide:


Adjusting SPACE Optimization:

You have measured all your room dimensions, added the room features such as wooden doors and windows, added your speakers, the speaker placement in the room and also your specific listening position.

Generally, I only add wooden doors as a feature, not door openings into adjacent rooms that don’t have doors.
I do add each window in the listening room, but not if it is a small window removed away from the speakers.
I don’t add the depth of a bay window, but I do measure the size of the bay window and add it as a feature, as if it was flush with the wall. I don’t add a TV, even though it is a large reflective surface, and generally ignore fireplaces, as a feature.

You press “Optimize” and notice you have a number of peaks on a graph.

You may notice that you have the following example calculated room modes:

Room mode 1:

Frequency: 43.65 Hz, Gain (-26.27), Bandwidth 0.082651

Room mode 2:

Frequency: 56.11 Hz, Gain (-20.27), Bandwidth 0.064871

Room mode 3

Frequency: 65.28 Hz, Gain (-14.75), Bandwidth 0.028693

Room Mode 4

Frequency: 72.83 Hz, Gain (-16.75), Bandwidth 0.020675


Of course you may have as little as 2 calculated room modes and in some cases as many as 7 or more room modes.

I will play around with the room dimensions and room features to reduce 6 or more calculated room modes down to 4 or 5. Sometimes you have peaks that are overlapping on top of each other. I generally will treat them as one room mode.

You listen to some of your reference music tracks with these calculated room modes and notice that sound quality is an improvement over what you had before. Job done? No!!!


Adjusting Room Modes For Bass Issues

With careful listening, you notice there is muddiness in the bass tracks on Buffalo Soldier and you can’t hear the growl of the bass guitar grinding its way through the track, with a perfect overlay on the bass drum.

Oscar Peterson’s You Look Good to Me has a beautiful bass line that should give you a lot of detail in the bass, as the strings are plucked, but on listening, you notice that there is not a lot of detail and definition in the bass line.

Lou Reeds Walk On The Wild Side has a wonderful bass line that repeats itself throughout the song, and you should be able to hear the bass strings being plucked and released, but you can’t. The bass string should have a very audible reverberation and when the string is released.

There is some work to do then.

When you have adjusted the bass properly with SPACE optimization, lots of detail will reveal itself in the midrange and highs you never heard before.

So how do I remedy this issue?

Whenever I see a calculated room mode 1 in the 35 Hz - 50 Hz range, it is a safe bet that there will be a real room mode at approximately half the calculated room mode that does not show up as a calculated room mode. However, it may not be exactly half the frequency, but off by many Hz above or below the projected value.

For example, if your calculated room mode 1 is in the 32Hz to 49 Hz range, there is almost certainly a real room mode in the mid to low 20 Hz range or may even be below 20 Hz. Thank you Linnrd, for this helpful discovery.

I have learned that different speakers seem to respond to specific frequencies.

If I am adjusting 242's without a subwoofer, I would start creating a custom room mode 1 at 23 Hz range, whereas Komris would be around 18 Hz, Exakt 350's with an Exakted Melodik sub was around 16 Hz, for example.
Origianl Isobariks might be at around 28 Hz and Keilidhs could be around 30 Hz. My Akubariks are around 21 Hz.

I don't know if this undiscovered lower frequency room mode is harmless or not, but it certainly has a major impact on bass overhang. Bass overhang can best be described as a muddiness in the bass, and can be heard as a "wooommmm wooommm woommm sound that is prominent in the music if you listen for it. Once you have identified it and then hear it prominently in many of your favourite tracks, it is a very good idea to create a new custom room mode 1 at the lower frequency.

You may not be able to hear it in all cases, but you will feel it in your ear drums as a sensation of pressure on your ear drums. This can also make the music unenjoyable, to the point where you may experience a kind of listening fatigue, and start switching to different music tracks part way through the song, and then go to the next song trying to find musical satisfaction, not realizing that the music sound quality is “off” and not enjoyable to listen to.

The key here is to be aware of your body and the sensations it is picking up from the music. You literally can hear and "feel" the music, as clues as to what is going on in your room and your speakers.

However, don't assume that all your bass issues are coming from low frequency bass in the 16-30 Hz range or lower. Often there are additional bass issues in the 60-80 Hz range that contributes to a muddy sounding vocals and instruments. Remember that 60-80 Hz is still low frequency.

Try different values and just listen. Preferably you do your listening with another person, to help you confirm it is an improvement.
Listen to Walk On The Wild Side, Buffalo Soldier and You Look Good to Me, over and over again. Move the frequency of the custom room mode one up and down, until it sounds better, to see if you are in the right frequency range.

If that sounds good, move the frequency up and down by 1.0 Hz at a time. So try 21.4, 22.4, 23.4, 24.4, 25.4 and so on, to see if you are going in the right direction and the midrange and highs become more clear? If not , go back to 21.4 Hz and then go the other direction, to 20.4, 19.4 Hz etc. If you like what you are hearing, it is time to fine tune the frequency, to 22.53, 22.63, or go to 22.22 and lower, until you hear your Linn system sounding its best.


Now that you have dialed in the best sound quality at a specific frequency, adjust the gain. For example, if the gain of room mode 1 is (-26.47), start off with a gain of about (-12 dB) for your custom room mode, then adjust up and down in gain to see if the sound quality improves?


Don’t forget to write down every change you make to frequency, gain and bandwidth as you go along, with a pen and paper. Otherwise, it will be difficult to go back to a setting that sounded really good, and you want to go back to.

Don’t forget to “Save” the profile as you go along, if you like the settings.

If you really like a particular profile, use the “Save As” button and give it a new name. For Example: Paul’s Test 1, Pauls Test 2, and so on.

For the bandwidth, I aim for the narrowest bandwidth possible that will capture the bass, with the filter. I try to aim for a bandwidth of 0.014227, as the narrowest allowable bandwidth at the moment. However, you can widen or decrease the bandwidth easily with a custom filter. If you go too wide, it will not give you good sound quality.

Narrowing the bandwidth to the narrowest possible will give stunning results.

So that should take care of your new custom room mode 1 for now. But it is now time to revisit the original calculated room mode 1

Example calculated room mode 1:

Frequency: 43.65 Hz, Gain (-24.27), Bandwidth 0.082651


Going back to Konfig calculated room mode 1 and move the frequency up slightly from 43.65 to 43.79, to 43.99 Hz, 44.12 Hz, 44.24 Hz and so on. Alternately, go the other direction and try listening with calculated room mode adjusted to 43.48 Hz and then lower, to see if you can hear a difference.

I have found in most cases, not to eliminate calculated room mode 1, if it is in the 30-50 Hz range, but will adjust the frequency, gain and bandwidth moderately.

In fact, I will often leave the calculated room mode 1 bandwidth more or less as calculated. However, I will move the frequency up or down in small increments until I find an improvement in sound quality.

Please note though, with a calculated room mode, you are very limited in how much you can adjust the frequency and the bandwidth. That is why I will create a custom room mode if I can’t get the adjustments that I want.

Then I may incrementally increase the gain, for example from -24.27 to -24.45, to -24.63 -24.78. Alternately, you could reduce gain to -24.13, to -23.88 and so on. Usually an increase in gain of 2-3 dB for calculated room mode 1 is enough and yields the best results, for calculated room mode 1

Once you have a good sounding frequency for calculated room mode 1. Try add about 3 dB of gain and see how that sounds? I find a slight boast to room mode one is helpful. Again, adjust the gain in very slight increments, until you get a sound quality your like. So if the calculated room mode 1 is 43.65 Hz, at -22.34 dB you may find the best sound quality is about -21.00 dB or -19.53 dB range. Your results may vary and don’t be afraid to experiment.

The bass is now deeper and more musical. Yet it is very easy to carry on a conversation in the room at loud volume, without raising your voice. The mids and highs are greatly improved, with awesome dynamics, detail, transparency and musicality.

What do you do if Konfig has already calculated a room mode 1 in the 20 Hz range?

I have seen enough Linn systems now, that I can say that sometimes SPACE optimization does calculate this lower frequency room mode in the 20 Hz range. If that is the case, then I adjust the frequency of this calculated room mode 1 up or down in frequency as well, to see if you can capture the specific frequency, and zoom in on the specific frequency that is excited. Then create a narrower notch filter at that frequency.

If you create a new custom filter to replace an existing calculated room mode, so you can make bigger adjustments to frequency and bandwidth, make sure you change the gain on the original room mode to zero, yes “0”.

This will involve creating a custom room mode at that frequency that is a very narrow notch filter. Then you must play with the gain on that room mode. I have the best success with a narrow bandwidth notch filter, but sometimes I have to widen the bandwidth to capture a bit more of the offending frequency.



You always have your saved favorite optimization profile you can go back to if you don’t like the result.

For the calculated room modes, you can only move the frequencies slightly from calculated, maybe a couple of dB on either side of the calculated frequency. Even so, it is highly worth while to see if moving the frequency of your calculated room modes incrementally up or down, improves the sound quality.

If it sounds better, it is better. Make sure you save your settings after each adjustment, otherwise you run the risk of having a great sound quality, but without saved settings, will lose everything.

Also write down all your changes as you go along, for frequency, gain and bandwidth. Then you can go back to changes that sounded good, if you overshoot the best sound quality.

Record your final results so you can go back to them later if needed.

Don't be afraid to create additional Profiles, and a back up of your favourite sound quality profile.

On my Klimax DS, if I held down the Prev or Next buttons on the IR-remote control (remember those?) the KDS display would continue to play the current track, while showing the current tracks position in the playlist (371/589), and then continue to decrement or increment the current track number, and at an increasing rate, until I let go of the button.

I found this useful.

This functionality has now been removed, I can only move one track in either direction.

Can this functionality be reinstated in a future release?

I am all astonishment, to quote Pride And Prejudice.

A few years ago I upgraded to a Kisto, even though I'd read on this forum that it wouldn't play HD sound formats. But having heard a AV5103 playing Prologic outperforming other processors playing dts, I decided I would be more than happy just listening to non-HD sound formats.

I also didn't have any problems, every DVD and BluRay that I put into my BluRay player would just play through the Kisto without any problem.

I've just upgraded to a 3D BluRay player, half expecting I'd have to end up with several Linn silvers going between the audio outputs of the OPPO 103 and the Kisto, and have to convince the 103 that I really didn't have a centre channel.

However, so essentially everything I've played has been fine. Avatar 3D is in dts-HD and that played fine. As did Jurassic Park. Top Gun almost did, no centre channel information at first, but the disc defaulted to Dolby Digital, switching to dts-HD and again all is fine.

I am one happy bunny.

Right so I'm finally ready to take my LP12 into a dealers for a service and new cartridge. I've Umm'ed and Ahh'ed over what to do. What cartridge to get and whether to treat it to a new plinth and arm. Well I've finally decided on this course of action.
New cartridge. As I do not play Dire Straits or Jazz audiophile records that make my hifi sound great but I cannot stand, I have decided upon a choice of two. Ortofon Quintet Red or ATf-7. One of those should do me for what I need.
No new plinth. It's not needed. Mine has some patina on it and it's honest. Walnut wood and corner braces for £550 will not make a jot of difference to how my collection of 1960/70's 45's sound. Neither will a shiny new tonearm.
I does need a new belt as the one I use is a generic and I'd like to make sure the Hercules is spinning at exactly 45rpm. A Linn belt is flipping expensive but I've gotta suck it up. I will not need another before I'm in the ground and the wife sells my Sondek for £50 just to get rid of my junk... Please God do not let her sell my records for what I told her I paid for them They are worth a fortune. I will hate putting it in the car, regardless of what people have told me I cannot see a sprung TT that needs £200 + of fettling to get it to bounce just right surviving a typical British journey home full of roundabouts and speed bumps in the same condition it left the shop. Anything could happen to it.

So that is it. New springs, Grommets, belt and cartridge. I'm taking it Tuesday.
What's the worst that can happen?